To my dearest Emily
I am finally able to send you this, my fractured recollections of the gruelling odyssey I have been engaged upon these last weeks. As you are fully aware, I embarked upon this campaign unsure of whether my body could withstand the severe strain required for such a feat. Let me first reassure you my love, though beaten and broken, I am returned alive and… mostly well.
You will recall my journey began with melancholy farewells. I had hoped beyond hope that you would be able to join the expedition team on this adventure, but alas, work commitments conspired against us. We said our goodbyes with heartfelt hugs and kisses before Audrey and I boarded a train bound for Derby and eventually arrived at my family home, a neutral location from where I could prepare and where I knew Audrey would be safe in the security of loved ones. I ensured my supplies were complete and equipment in pristine condition before the early hours transit to Leicester the following morning.
It was a rare separation from my troupe, as you know well, I do not entertain lengthy estrangement lightly, and this was to be as long as any we have endured since we met my love. As the secret whispers of anticipated sunlight began to peer around the curve of earth’s infinity, I ventured out alone on this epic sojourn.
At the University of Leicester, I met with the expedition team. We gathered at that beastly hour in the chilly morning air of the University carpark with a combined sense of anticipation. I was delighted to greet good old friends and excitable new ones as we prepared to embark. Our first step would be the port town of Dover. The voyage from Leicester to Dover was blessedly calm and trouble free. Attempts in prior years had met with chaotic traffic conditions close to the capital, but today, the route was clear. With a brief pause in Luton to pick up a final passenger, we arrived at Britain’s ancient port with time enough to enjoy a spot of reasonably priced breakfast in quaint café, The Happy Chef.
Dover is home to Britain’s oldest shipwreck, dating to around 1100 BC during the Bronze Age. Over 350 bronze tools and weapons littered the seabed. A number of Bronze Age burial sites have also been found in the vicinity. The town thrived during the Roman era as an important port, Dubris, after the British Dubras or waters. The port had a large harbour flanked by two lighthouses and a fort. Following Roman annexation of Britain, there was a strong Saxon presence in the area and a wealth of materials and burials have been uncovered locally.
The usual border patrol checks and soul sucking queue systems eventually concluded in the boarding of our vessel. We were ready for the continent. I have always found ferry journeys across the English Channel to be a pleasurable experience. Of course, this was a perfect opportunity to consume my first (of many) beers to celebrate our upcoming expedition. I enjoyed the view as that spectacular symbol of Albion, the white cliffs, gradually faded behind us. As we left that sight, a new, vast unexplored land mass appeared on the horizon. Despite being fairly well travelled, it is always a shock to witness that when you avoid air travel, you genuinely get a taste of how expansive the planet really is and how much of it you have not, and may never see. Disembarking the ferry, we took to the road, winding through swathes of countryside towards our first camp. I tried to take in every inch, immersing myself in the surrounding new landscapes and cultural practices as we traversed the French and Belgic scenery.
Our first base was Camping Esmerelda, a large, sprawling mass of mobile homes and spacious caravans on the North Sea coast about 25 minutes from the city of Bruges. The facility was of a reasonable standard, with all the conveniences required for a brief layover and a bar with acceptable prices and a flexible closing time, which is of course, always appreciated. My canvas home for the forthcoming evenings was, fortunately, a dream to erect. A pop up device ready to call home in mere minutes, whilst others struggled with shaky poles and rogue waterproof segments flapping in the strong sea breeze. I did my best to assist where I could, helping my friends and fellow expedition colleagues to pitch up. Sadly, my new home was not quite as dreamy when it came to a comfortable nights slumber, but that was a challenge for a future me. For now, the foundation of our camp was complete and were set to explore.
The first reconnaissance on our list was the Belgic town of Bruges. Famed for being a wonderfully preserved medieval town, Bruges is a postcard pretty fairy tale. Ancient buildings and narrow lamp lit cobbled streets make up the old town, with a grand central square, the Markt, bordered by luxury cafes, bustling bars and sumptuous restaurants all facing the impressive Belfort Von Bruges.
Bronze and Iron Age prehistoric evidence has been discovered along the coast close to the city. The first fortifications in the area of Bruges arose to protect coastal areas from the threat of pirates after Julius Caesar’s conquest of the Menapii in the first century BC. Around the 4th century, the Franks took the region, until Viking incursions in the 9th century forced Count Baldwin I of Flanders to reinforce the Roman fortifications. It is believed the name Bruges emerged from the old-Scandinavian Brygga meaning Harbour or mooring place. The tidal inlet had a strategic location along the northern and southern trade routes and Bruges would flourish during the medieval period, particularly in the wool, cloth and weaving trades. The old town today is a stunning flashback to that golden era.
Feeling the deep pangs of fatigue and hunger, we ventured to a little Vegetarian restaurant, De Plaats, for some healthy and very tasty… though rather expensive food. Once we had eaten, the team decided to separate to explore the city. Two close colleagues and I chose to make careful study of some Belgic bars off the beaten track. Our mission was to explore the famed delights of Belgian produce, and we were not disappointed. At a little bar, café Cambrinus, I tried a sour raspberry flavoured beer, a tart and terrific taste to get started! We took an extended tour of the city in search of Taphouse de Zanloper, a corner bar with distinctive beers, which our guide promised were unrivalled. Unfortunately, after the lengthy journey, the establishment proved less impressive than had been suggested. I tried some traditional white beers, which whilst tasty, were not exactly mind blowing. Finally, we made a mad dash in our remaining minutes to The Monk, a bar that we were promised… for sure this time, the interesting Belgic beer in a horn shaped glass could be consumed. It was a delightful experience and rounded off brilliant Bruges in style. Making our way back to the vehicles, our last stop was the rather unconventional outdoor urinals, carefully positioned to ensure shop doorways did not become city toilets.
Before the end of the evening, as the last gasps of sunlight stretched over the horizon, a select group of us made an excursion to the campsite bar. After a few local beers, our taste for adventure took hold and acquiring a supply of beers for the trip, we made a dash for the ocean to experience the dusk delight of the expansive coast. The labyrinth-like route to the coastal area became rather more convoluted than it first appeared. Eventually we found the dark orange sands and inky Black Ocean, its soothing roar stretching into the audible distance. We braved the sands to experience a late taste of the evening sea air. It was a wonderful way to end the evening. On the way back, I was under the foolish notion a shortcut was available and, even more foolishly, made off alone to prove my point.Of course, I was incorrect, and wound up walking miles through the endless maze of roads in the darkest depths of the evening, before eventually finding my way back to the safety of the tent. As a seasoned explorer, I love to get lost, to be completely unsure what lies around the next bend. However, there is often a time and place; it might have been a lot more fun had there been any light to see what surrounded me!
Thankfully back in camp, tipsy, tired and toasty warm, I bedded down for the first of many nights under the stars, ready for the challenges which lay ahead.
To Be Continued…