Blackhall Rocks

A rather different experience for our little family team this day, we ventured into a practically modern melee by comparison with our usual historical haunts. We sought an adventure at the beach, but hoped to escape the throngs of excitable sun-seekers at the better known resort locations along the north east coast.

Blackhall Rocks and Blackhall Colliery are predominantly recognised for their associations with the coal mining industry.  For many years the area was heavily industrial and to our pleasance attuned minds, probably devilish. Black coal strewn beaches and thick smog plumes apparently smothered the once pristine landscape, but this particular industry came upon hard times and eventually ceased altogether, now effort and finance has been put forward to clean up the spoilt seaboard and as such, nature has since reclaimed the land as its own.

The original colliery was built and run by Daniel Hall, known locally under the alias β€˜black’ due to his coal mining association, and so, Black-Hall became the town’s official label.  It seems to have reached its peak during the 20th century when the railroad and mining masses were in full swing but has since witnessed severe economic decline. The beach itself appeared in the 1971 movie Get Carter, where the sand can be seen strewn with coal and colliery debris.  We were delighted to see that tourism and leisure are now assisting with a gradual rekindling of the areas popularity, and it is very easy to see the current appeal.

The most spectacular thing about this remote edge of our little island, is its stunning coastal nature reserve.  Wildflowers and grassland meadows blanket the clifftops, birds and insects float and frolic, basking in the sunshine breeze.  The walks are plentiful and have a real feel of some heavenly paradise as the wind ripples over the long grass stalks in twirling waves, mimicking the endless ocean beyond.

Apparently, during the mid-19th century a lone hotel used to stand upon the cliff here. The old hotel must have offered quite a reclusive prospect, a single antagonistic figure resolutely squaring up to the might of the North Sea.  Sadly it no longer remains, though we had a lot of fun vocally reanimating the colourful and creepy characters that must have passed through its remote halls and slept under its wind and weather beaten roof.

We wandered through the wonderful wild meadows until we reached some suspect looking steps leading down to the beach and the dark blue ocean.  We continued with caution down the steep track, careful of our footing but enamoured by the wonderful wildlife surrounding us in every direction as we closed in on the sands below.

The beach is a wonder of its own, littered with coastal Magnesian Limestone rocks and pebbles, it appears like a vision of some alien planet, a distant lunar landscape stretching in a thin band, toe to toe with the ocean to infinity.  Millennia of water erosion has left these smooth round rocks with all manner of hollowed patterning, we wanted to fill our pockets for souvenirs, such were the unique enchanting aspects of these gems.

After a good amount of time skimming stones and splashing about in the ocean, enjoyed most especially by our darling Audrey, whose affinity to the waters of the world are already clearly evident, we made our way.  We paused for the unexpected drama of a police helicopter chase along the coast, a completely paradoxical experience to our leisurely sojourn but an interesting inclusion none the less. Finally we arrived back on the road.  The twisting tarmac accepted us gladly and more adventures await, but this was a perfect little escape and a relaxing chance to while away the hours and not feel at all bad about any of it.

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Lullingstone Roman Villa

Sometimes, even on the dreariest of weekends, when the ceiling of grey drizzle shuffles so low to the earth you could touch it and the stubborn winter dark seems to drag its heels through the domain of day, there remains a longing desire to escape the confines of walls and windows and taste the fresh crystal countryside air.

It was on one such dismal day that we ventured towards the rumoured remains of a Roman Villa in Lullingstone, near the village of Eynsford in that glorious garden of England, the county of Kent.  The Villa was built in the Darent Valley around 80-90 AD and was likely the lavish home to a wealthy family, possibly even a country retreat for Governors of the Roman province of Britannia.

Before exploring the remarkable remains of this Roman Villa, Bramble and I explored the surrounding landscape in hopes of further understanding the unique qualities which led to such a location choice.  It is indeed remarkably scenic, rolling fields and tree covered hilltops with the Darent River cutting a swirling valley through it all.  It seems the ancient lure of luxury still hangs in the air, a miasma of pure privilege in our modern day, as a well maintained golf course now overlooks the 15th century Lullingstone Castle, a manor house of singular beauty and prime location upon a great body of the river.

These surroundings suitably investigated and our curiosities perfectly piqued, we re-joined our darling family to delve into the well excavated depths of Lullingstone Roman Villa.

Incredible indications of the activities occurring nearly two thousand years ago are littered in every corner of this magnificent ruin.  Leather shoes, hypocaust tiles for under floor heating, bone dice, intricate carved stone, spectacular mosaic floors, lavish pottery, coins, beads and domestic items of every calibre offer a striking glance into the life of a wealthy Roman family in Britannia.

A fascination of this empirical luxury residence lies in its early links to Christian worship, new to our little island at the end of the earth.  It appears that a space already utilised for religious ceremony saw a 4th century conversion to indulge in the worship of Christ.  This makes it one of the earliest known advocates of this contemporarily rare religion, a new arrival to British shores and one which must have appeared entirely alien to many of its inhabitants.  Frescos displaying the Chi-Rho appear to be the only known Christian paintings from the Roman period in Britain. Furthermore, during the Anglo Saxon period, a Christian Chapel was built amidst the ruins of a Romano British Temple-Mausoleum. The chapel stood into Norman times and is one of the earliest examples of its kind in England.

A curious little twist to this tale comes in the form of a rude pagan temple beneath the Christian example.  Perhaps this was an indication of a wealthy elite projecting support of the newly celebrated Christian cult, whilst maintaining their personal preference to worship of the old gods in secret?

We circumnavigated the site, taking in each individual room and the treasures within.  It is true that the centrepiece of this delightfully opulent residence are the incredibly well preserved mosaic floors in the reception room, depicting the abduction of Europa and Bellerophon riding Pegasus and killing the Chimera.  It would have made for a striking sight on entering the building, a proverbial punch in the face letting people know just how important, wealthy and well read the owner truly was.  In our modern madness, a lightshow and audio accompaniment help to colour the story of the Villa for its visitors, since no longer are you able to walk upon the precisely patterned stones of the ancient empire.  Of course I believe this to be a suitable substitute given the important preservation needs of such a palace, but it always seems nice to get a closer look...

It appears that in the 5th century a fire destroyed the majority of the Villa, and aside from occasional reuse, it was all but forgotten to time.  It was first rediscovered in the 18th century when the building of a deer park dug through mosaic floors beneath the ground, but proper excavations were not carried out until the 20th century when the full extent of the Villa was finally uncovered.

Thoughts wandered to the inevitable of course, what of the pre-Roman natives in this story, such a location must have been of importance before our empirical oppressors took hold?  It seems that some Belgic pottery pre-dating the conquest has been discovered here, along with evidence of agricultural activity, but settlement is lost to us due to the nature of the structures and materials utilised.

After a long casual stroll around the entirety of the ruins, we decided to make for home, suitably infused and energised by the sight of such historic splendour rediscovered beneath our feet.  The dreary grey afternoon stretched out into an early night, and the lure of hot tea and pyjamas awaited us at home in the cottage, not quite in the same league as the lavish Villas of the ancient elite, but just perfect for our little family.

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Castlerigg Stone Circle

In the remote wilds of Cumbria we found ourselves in the midst of a prehistoric marvel.  The Castlerigg Stone Circle is a thing of true wonder.  Ancient stones set in an otherworldly surrounding, it echoes with the memories of two hundred generations or more.  Dubbed the Druid circle, the carefully positioned stones are enclosed by the epic majesty of the fells, languishing stylishly at the centre of an impossibly enormous natural amphitheatre.

The circle is thought to be Late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age in date and its function has been argued for centuries, the debate still rages.  From meeting place to astronomical device, trading post to ritual centre, its mysteries continue to draw fascinated fandom from all over the planet.  Here we were the next in line.

We made our way up a steep hill by car and found a suitable place to alight. Only a little gate and a lot of sheep remained between us and the ancient stone circle. There is no price to pay, witnessing the archaic architecture costs only the will to make the journey and to brave the cold. From within the stones, which you can approach and explore up close, the views are simply ecstatic. The intimate experience of this mystical construction whilst the wind, frost, rain and fog whips around you like a dancing demon is indescribable.  You become a part of its endless mystery by merely standing within its hallowed centre.

The stones are composed of volcanic rock from the Borrowdale Volcanic group, some are over 2 meters high and weigh up to 16 tons.  The process of monument creation would have been both a feat of utter genius and extreme exhaustion.  Archaeo-astronomers have suggested the stones line up with the midwinter sunrise and certain other significant positions of the moon.

The earliest written record of the circle comes from that antiquarian intrigue and prehistory scholar, William Stukeley.  His account, published after his death in 1776, recalls the monument as a Celtic work with a mysterious grave at its east end.  Whilst there is no evidence of human remains being uncovered at the monument, little recorded archaeological work has actually been conducted. However, nearby at White Raise Cairn, human remains were discovered in a stone lined grave within.

Though the incredible structure is constantly linked to Druidical practice, there seems to be no genuine evidence of its function during the Iron Age.  3 Neolithic stone axes were discovered within the circle giving rise to a belief it may have been a trade and exchange post of these valuable items.  Polished axes such as these were quarried high in the fells thanks to the qualities of the local volcanic rock.

Legend has it that the stones move when not being watched, mischievously switching places or even hiding so that it is said you will never count the same number of stones twice.  Glowing orbs have been persistently reported at the site, giving rise to a belief the stones may be the haunt of faeries and ghosts.

Close to the Castlerigg Stone Circle, a recent speculative magnetometer survey discovered a substantial possible Roman fort complex beneath the undisturbed earth.  The giant enclosure is believed to have been a temporary camp for troops advancing north to the far unknown reaches of the island. The stories of horror and marvel which must have been spoken within those walls, of the monsters and gods that dwelt in the barren wilds of the north, of the treasures and wonders that were surely to be discovered during those treacherous treks.  If walls could only speak. It remains unexcavated but perhaps one day will add much to the story of this historic area.

Before our fingers and toes became completely numb to the bone, we made our way back through the lustrous landscape towards the nearby idyllic town of Keswick.  A picturesque postcard of a settlement, Keswick offers the outdoor adventurer a welcome retreat from city bustle and daily routine.  Littered with good old fashioned pubs (dogs and children welcome everywhere it seems, with the Twa Dogs and Dog and Gun being our very favourite) and countless cafes and shops, it has become a base and a shrine for all things explorer.

The jewel in this magnificent landscape crown is Derwentwater, a glorious pool of twinkling silver surrounded by a circle of emerald mountain giants, peering down into its mirror-like depths.  Boats glide effortlessly across the choppy waters seeking unforgettable pleasure from otherwise unobtainable scenic views.  It is easy to see why this place has been revered throughout the ages.

After many a locally brewed Jennings ale, we gathered our family entourage and made for the comfort of our lodgings.  Such a place as this seems straight from the pages of classic literature, as though all the words of the great romantic poets, the settings of legend and fantasy authors and the songs of folk troubadours collided and from the dust emerged their imagined Elysian fields.

We will sleep well tonight in this cosy corner of Albion… or dare I whisper, Eden?...

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The Mystery of the forsaken Mariner - update....

Dearest Emily,

Progress had been a slow meander of late, until these last few exhilarating days.

We enjoyed the pleasant luxury of life at a becalmed trot, exploring the beautiful territories of south west England in all its exquisite glory. The weather delayed our initial exploits, occasionally with severe authority, however the sun broke through with its wondrous life galvanizing greatness and made the hilltop rambling bearable again.

So this brief letter to you my love is a quick update on the case, I am certain you are in eager anticipation to hear our news.

The complexities of our recent discovery have yet to be fully revealed. It is clear however, that what our good Sir Drake buried over there in the Americas was no standard trove of treasure. We are not talking gold and silver here, but something more complex, more powerful, powerful enough to change the fortunes of a tiny island on the edge of the civilized world into the greatest power ever to grace the planet.

My first thoughts were of those ancient mines, perhaps in the keen enthusiasm for prosperous trade, the need for tin led to a chance discovery, buried deep within the mines, hacked away with primitive tools in meager light.

Or perhaps it is a more sinister a thing, something of black magic, As a Tolkien movie adaptation once suggested…

β€œYou fear to go into those mines. The dwarves delved too greedily and too deep. You know what they awoke in the darkness of Khazad-dum... shadow and flame”

or maybe something utterly worse, uncomprehending…. a secret?

It is abundantly clear that we are not alone in our desire to discover the truth of this matter. Our interest is being monitored, and I fear our adversaries may be willing to stoop significantly low to achieve their goals.

With that in mind, we have assumed false identities during our travels, I shall not disclose our new personas here for fear of interception, but I think you will get a real kick out of them when you hear! :)

Well my darling, that is all I have time for, I head for the library to continue this delicate research. We will be in touch again soon. I hope your party will reach us in the next few weeks and trial excavation may begin to assist our project.

Keep a keen eye on the Twitter page and Instagram accounts for pictorial updates, I shall do my best to update as often as possible.

With all our eternal love

Craig and Audrey xxx