Gallivanting in Grantham

It has been a busy old summer, and a hot one of course! So sitting at a computer most days has not been the most desirable hang out. Thankfully, we have managed to sneak in some archaeological and historical adventures despite our heavy workloads and looming deadlines.

By far the biggest event of the summer was Emily’s archaeological field school in Harlaxton, Lincolnshire, just outside of Grantham. Digging Harlaxton was a joint community venture which involved Harlaxton College, The Enabled Archaeology Foundation, Operation Nightingale, Network Archaeology, University of Lincoln, Grantham and Harlaxton community members and many more. The primary goal of the excavations was to offer an accessible program of archaeology to the local community, a number of charitable groups and an educational program to students of Harlaxton College and local schools.

The archaeology itself was formed of two specific sites. The first was located in the walled garden complex of Harlaxton Manor. The walled garden is set to be redeveloped and made accessible to the public, so a number of test trenches were strategically placed in the garden to explore the original Victorian glass houses which are no longer extant. The second site explored an unusual cropmark within a prehistoric landscape nearby. The area had experienced some field walking but no excavation had been previously conducted.

The excavations for this season are now completed and the reports are being written for publication as soon as specialist reports and investigations are conducted on the finds and environmental sampling. The results will be forthcoming when the report is released, but suffice to say there were some incredible discoveries made, some puzzling archaeology discovered, and the field school was a huge success with everyone involved. Community members expressed their joy at feeling involved and were excited to learn the various histories of their locality. The students benefitted greatly from a well-executed project and educational program, and many people who may not have considered archaeology accessible or even interesting, were fully immersed and enjoyed the experience immensely.

Whilst Emily was busy making sure the project sailed smoothly, Audrey and I took the opportunity to help where we could. This sometimes involved assisting in the dig, occasionally meant playing in the mountains of sand produced from the Lincolnshire countryside, and at other times meant heading away on adventures of our own.

We made our way into the town of Grantham to have a look around. Grantham appears in the Domesday book of 1086, though its earliest origin is not entirely clear. The name may refer to a personal name of Granta, or the old English Grand for gravel, therefore Granta/Grand (Granta’s or by gravel) Ham (homestead). The town is well positioned along the River Witham valley where it joins with the Mow Beck river. There are hints at a well utilised prehistoric landscape, with a Palaeolithic axe, Mesolithic flints and a possible Neolithic settlement all discovered in the area. There have also been Beaker pottery finds, and a Bronze Age cemetery located in Grantham. The majority of potential for prehistoric evidence lies just outside the town, between Grantham and Harlaxton, where crop marks display a rich and curious collection of features. Evidence for a number of Romano-British farmsteads have also been found in the form of coins, pottery and the footings of structures.

The town itself is thought to have largely grown during the early medieval period, perhaps during the 7th century. In the Domesday book, Grantham is mentioned as a town and Royal residence, with St Wulfram’s church serving the Parish. It has been argued that Grantham started out as an important Saxon centre and then became a minor local capitol during the Danelaw following Viking incursions.

We wandered into town, and after buying some sparkly rainbow shoes and a princess dress, we made our way to the main historical feature at the centre of Grantham, St Wulfram’s church.

Being an important market town with a strong wool trade, Grantham flourished during the 11th century and the riches brought in, went towards funding St Wulfram’s church. St Wulfram’s has the sixth largest spire of English churches and hosts the first ever public library in England, dating to 1598. The church recently won an award as the finest non-cathedral English church. Only a few stones remain of the original Saxon church but the building was completely restructured during the Norman Conquest. The church saw repeated development through the centuries and was fully restored in 1866-67 by Sir George Gilbert Scott.

Audrey took immense delight in exploring the church. Inside, amongst historical monuments, ancient tombs and epic windows, Audrey quickly discovered a play area full of toys to investigate! Carefully descending some worn stone steps, we ventured into one of the original oldest parts of the building. A door and a number of chests here are original medieval artefacts. Fascinatingly, it is said that this crypt was once used to house a relic of St Wulfram. It also held church valuables and apparently even human remains as a charnel house when the graveyard was full.

After exploring the church, we made our way through the narrow winding streets of Grantham, and back to Harlaxton, but not before sneaking in a quick visit to a traditional local pub. Audrey enjoyed a blackcurrant juice and some crisps, whilst I sampled the local beer before we continued on our journey, fully refreshed.

Back in Harlaxton, we decided to wander the village streets and pine over the dreamy old houses and stunning gardens. It is a delightfully cute little village, once voted English village of the year. We wound our way through the streets and up the hill towards the church, again the main feature at the centre of the locality. Audrey found delight at collecting wild flowers as we wandered, and a variety of rare rainbow leaves. The church is dedicated to St Mary and St Peter and likely originated in the 12th century. It has an early 14th century buttressed tower and a font dating to 1400.

Harlaxton is mentioned in the 1086 Domesday Book as Herlavestune, or Herelaf-Tun meaning the estate or farm of Herelaf. The village grew around Harlaxton Manor. This Moated Manor house, which was situated close to the current village, was built in the 14th century and is said to have been used as a hunting lodge by the infamous son of King Edward III and friend of Geoffrey Chaucer, John of Gaunt.

After long days of adventuring, we joined back with Emily and the archaeology team at the local pub, the Gregory, so named after the founder of the current Harlaxton Manor House, which you can read all about in our earlier blog β€œThe Harlaxton Shuffle” below. This little region at the heart of England retains a peaceful, rural atmosphere, picturesque and full of charm.

The excavations at Harlaxton are guaranteed to make a significant contribution to the understanding of Harlaxton’s prehistory and the development of Harlaxton Manor during the Victorian period. More importantly, the dig was a milestone in highlighting accessible archaeology. The hope was to create a project in which all participants could feel an equal part of the experience, no matter what restrictions they may have faced for a variety of reasons. Not only was this successfully accomplished, but the reports of techniques implemented will offer an important guidance on such measures for all future projects nationwide.

And there has never been a spoil heap more utilised for its activity centre capabilities than the epic sandy mound of Digging Harlaxton. I am fairly sure some of that sand is still to be found in Audrey’s socks and shoes.

Castlerigg Stone Circle

In the remote wilds of Cumbria we found ourselves in the midst of a prehistoric marvel.  The Castlerigg Stone Circle is a thing of true wonder.  Ancient stones set in an otherworldly surrounding, it echoes with the memories of two hundred generations or more.  Dubbed the Druid circle, the carefully positioned stones are enclosed by the epic majesty of the fells, languishing stylishly at the centre of an impossibly enormous natural amphitheatre.

The circle is thought to be Late Neolithic or Early Bronze Age in date and its function has been argued for centuries, the debate still rages.  From meeting place to astronomical device, trading post to ritual centre, its mysteries continue to draw fascinated fandom from all over the planet.  Here we were the next in line.

We made our way up a steep hill by car and found a suitable place to alight. Only a little gate and a lot of sheep remained between us and the ancient stone circle. There is no price to pay, witnessing the archaic architecture costs only the will to make the journey and to brave the cold. From within the stones, which you can approach and explore up close, the views are simply ecstatic. The intimate experience of this mystical construction whilst the wind, frost, rain and fog whips around you like a dancing demon is indescribable.  You become a part of its endless mystery by merely standing within its hallowed centre.

The stones are composed of volcanic rock from the Borrowdale Volcanic group, some are over 2 meters high and weigh up to 16 tons.  The process of monument creation would have been both a feat of utter genius and extreme exhaustion.  Archaeo-astronomers have suggested the stones line up with the midwinter sunrise and certain other significant positions of the moon.

The earliest written record of the circle comes from that antiquarian intrigue and prehistory scholar, William Stukeley.  His account, published after his death in 1776, recalls the monument as a Celtic work with a mysterious grave at its east end.  Whilst there is no evidence of human remains being uncovered at the monument, little recorded archaeological work has actually been conducted. However, nearby at White Raise Cairn, human remains were discovered in a stone lined grave within.

Though the incredible structure is constantly linked to Druidical practice, there seems to be no genuine evidence of its function during the Iron Age.  3 Neolithic stone axes were discovered within the circle giving rise to a belief it may have been a trade and exchange post of these valuable items.  Polished axes such as these were quarried high in the fells thanks to the qualities of the local volcanic rock.

Legend has it that the stones move when not being watched, mischievously switching places or even hiding so that it is said you will never count the same number of stones twice.  Glowing orbs have been persistently reported at the site, giving rise to a belief the stones may be the haunt of faeries and ghosts.

Close to the Castlerigg Stone Circle, a recent speculative magnetometer survey discovered a substantial possible Roman fort complex beneath the undisturbed earth.  The giant enclosure is believed to have been a temporary camp for troops advancing north to the far unknown reaches of the island. The stories of horror and marvel which must have been spoken within those walls, of the monsters and gods that dwelt in the barren wilds of the north, of the treasures and wonders that were surely to be discovered during those treacherous treks.  If walls could only speak. It remains unexcavated but perhaps one day will add much to the story of this historic area.

Before our fingers and toes became completely numb to the bone, we made our way back through the lustrous landscape towards the nearby idyllic town of Keswick.  A picturesque postcard of a settlement, Keswick offers the outdoor adventurer a welcome retreat from city bustle and daily routine.  Littered with good old fashioned pubs (dogs and children welcome everywhere it seems, with the Twa Dogs and Dog and Gun being our very favourite) and countless cafes and shops, it has become a base and a shrine for all things explorer.

The jewel in this magnificent landscape crown is Derwentwater, a glorious pool of twinkling silver surrounded by a circle of emerald mountain giants, peering down into its mirror-like depths.  Boats glide effortlessly across the choppy waters seeking unforgettable pleasure from otherwise unobtainable scenic views.  It is easy to see why this place has been revered throughout the ages.

After many a locally brewed Jennings ale, we gathered our family entourage and made for the comfort of our lodgings.  Such a place as this seems straight from the pages of classic literature, as though all the words of the great romantic poets, the settings of legend and fantasy authors and the songs of folk troubadours collided and from the dust emerged their imagined Elysian fields.

We will sleep well tonight in this cosy corner of Albion… or dare I whisper, Eden?...

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