It was a day for Regality, for pomp and for opulence on the scale of the highest nobility. Whilst in reality, as an average working family in Britain we languish in the agonising poverty of the island and scrape the minimum wage deemed survivable, sometimes it is good to see how the other half live, even if the other half in question were looking down from on high from many centuries ago.
We had an undeniable craving to explore castles, and we were fortunate enough to be surrounded by some of the most incredible examples of fortified construction in the country. This part of the world has been terrorized by rebellions, wars and raiders for as long as people have resided upon its lands. Building impenetrable fortresses was a medieval necessity. Many of these castles evolved with the changing political climates and aristocratic trends to become firstly more powerful and protective, and later splendid, stylish and stunning family homes and seats of power.
Our first exploration came in the exquisite shape of Raby Castle, an astounding building close to the little village of Staindrop in County Durham. Raby was built by the important Neville family during the 14th century, though there may have been a substantial fortified building on the site prior to this. It became an imposing fortress, with nine towers and a curtain wall protecting an impressive inner keep. The Neville’s were one of the most powerful families in the north of England. Their close association to the Earls of Lancaster led to support of Henry Bolingbroke as he successfully challenged King Richard II for the throne. Ralph Neville was made Earl Marshall of England and a Knight of the Garter by King Henry IV.
The castle remained in the Neville family until the 16th century, when the catholic Charles Neville led a rebellion against Queen Elizabeth, known as the Rising of the North. The rebellion was crushed by Elizabeth and Charles fled into exile. His lands were forfeit to the crown and eventually passed into the hands of the Vane family, whose ancestors reside in the castle still.
We chose a glorious day for exploring such a fine residence, the sun beat down upon us with elated vigour as we explored the beautifully tended walled gardens and stunning deer park surrounding Raby Castle. Audrey was hypnotised by the herd of calm looking horned creatures, always fascinated by the wonders of nature. The castle itself is in such a complete and well maintained form, surrounded by a moat in the traditional fashion, and as such retains that classic image of a British Castle. You can almost imagine a princess locked in a tower and some fearsome King sat upon a looming throne inside, sword at his hip…
Of course, this was not the case... at least, as we made for the drawbridge entrance, I hoped it was not…
Entry into the castle is not without a fee, however the upkeep of such an estate must take some considerable financial assistance so hopefully the money goes back into the care of the property. Once through the gate, the experience is remarkable, and the condition of this ancient building is spectacular to say the very least.
First we circumnavigated the area within the curtain walls, a gravel yard surrounding the Castle with cannon and artillery aimed through the crenels of the battlements at the world beyond. The views across the moat to the deer park were a pure delight! After a gentle circle of the building, we made our way into the entrance hall. A quirky aspect of the entrance is the carriageway driven through the medieval building. In celebration of this destructive renovation, a restored carriage stands proud in the main reception space of the building.
As we wandered through the timeworn corridors, it was instantly clear that significant time and money had been poured into the family’s spectacular collection of artwork. Every single room adorned a unique collection of priceless and proud images, peering down from the walls and even the ceilings. Works by legendary artists such as Giordano, Van Dyck and Sir Joshua Reynolds make up just a minute portion of the stunning collection. Whilst Emily and I marvelled at these wonders, Audrey didn’t quite appreciate the subtle calming qualities of these classic creations, and as all young excitable minds do, preferred the idea of playtime! Had she been allowed, she would certainly have gotten up close to the antique objects neatly exhibited around the house, and joyously brought them back to life, I have no doubt!
The Barons Hall is a spectacular sight and apparently the exact spot where over 700 rebellious Catholics gathered to plot the Rise of the North, hoping to install Mary Queen of Scots to the throne of England. The Kitchen is one of the oldest sections of the building, still part of the original fabric it dates to around 1360. The minstrels gallery is also still in its original form.
The castle is supposedly haunted by at least three apparitions. The rebellious Charles Neville is reported to be seen regularly in the Barons Hall, perhaps still lamenting his failed coup. The headless ghost of Henry Vale the younger is often spotted in the library, and furious at her son Gilbert for daring to marry without her consent, the ghost of the first Lady Barnard stalks the halls gripping red hot knitting needles and working furiously, muttering her evident despair. Sadly, we didn’t bump into any of these stirring spectres as we explored the building, though Audrey did offer some of her finest screams along the corridors, perhaps this scared them off?...
Our investigation of the antique interiors of the Castle complete, we made our way slowly back through the yard, over the moat and to a little café outside for a well-deserved cup of tea. Of course, in this glorious sun-soaked afternoon a cool beer would certainly not have gone amiss, but it had to wait, as our castle adventure wasn’t over yet, this was only one of two legendary fortresses we would visit on this day…
To be continued…
