As we drifted casually from our first fortified fantasyland, the glorious weather continued to cover us in its gratifying glow. We did not have far to venture before we came upon the second of our County Durham castles. Just fifteen minutes to the southwest lay the spectacular site of Barnard Castle.
Barnard Castle today describes not only the castle, but the busy market town which has grown up around those ancient ruins perched upon a precarious cliff overlooking the mighty river Tees. The little town is a bygone delight. Surrounded on all sides by stunning countryside, farmlands and forests, stretched along the Tees Valley, today it echoes every pleasurable aspect of rural living. A Roman road once ran through the town to a ford, a crossing point on the Tees, the road was observed during works on separate occasions in 1839 and 1886. The market, high street, churches and buildings could be straight from the literary pages of some Dickensian novel; indeed a young Mr Dickens resided in the town for a time and used it as inspiration for his third novel, Nicholas Nickleby. The tough Victorian residential academies in the area were famed for their bitter brutality, it seems Dickens was keen to see the horrors involved for himself and speculate on the reform required.
Tucked away just around the corner, on Newgate, is the beautiful Bowes Museum, a spectacular feat of imitation architecture styled in the fashion of a French Chateaux. Founded in 1869 by the art loving aristocratic landowners, John and Josephine Bowes, the Bowes Museum contains a magnificent mix of treasures including paintings, sculpture, pottery, interior décor, furniture, fashion and even antique toys. We made a mini detour to witness the wonders within, a brief but beautiful stroll through exquisite corridors full of fancy trinkets and terrific treasures. The centrepiece of the museum is the amazing silver swan, an absolute extravagant vision and clockwork marvel, displayed to the public in all its fully operational glory once every day… which sadly we missed by moments!
Leaving the museum, we wandered joyously along Market Place and Horse Market, dipping into some of the traditional public houses along the way. Our favourite haunts being the Golden Lion, apparently the oldest pub in the town dating back to 1679. The pub is associated with several intriguing spectral sightings, some apparently caught on camera. Suggestions of ancient siege victims and Roman travellers had been delightfully deliberated. We also visited the Old Well Inn, certainly one of the best beer gardens in town, directly joined to the castle walls. We enjoyed a few local Ales, Bramble bounded around the garden like a possessed pogo stick and Audrey played happily with an entire wall of toys in the most child friendly pub we have ever visited!
You cannot help but to feel transported to an age when horse and cart ruled the road, when industry bellowed in every available corner of England, when schools were harsh and Empire was huge. The scars of this excitable age are still present on the solid stones of Barnard Castle, and though it is now a picturesque town popular with traveling tourists as a rural retreat, it is clear that this little town once held an important position of power upon the island.
Nowhere is that power demonstrated more precisely than in its spectacular crown jewel, Barnard Castle (…the castle, not the town)
On a commanding peak, dominating the landscape, looking down majestically upon the river Tees, it is easy to see the importance of this formidable landmark. The traumatic life of this land played out like an immature tussle over a child’s favourite toy. Pulled this way and that, encouraging silly scraps and bickering infants until a new fancy plaything came along. The old was discarded, unwanted and unloved, left to gather dust and decay. Eventually though it would find fashion once more, dragged from the depths and lovingly restored, but never again to be played with, as its original function had encouraged. Now just an antique to be carefully admired from afar.
The Earls of Northumberland seized the lands owned by the church in the 11th century. So began a history of conflict, which would see Barnard Castle change hands many times. The Earls fought an unsuccessful rebellion against William II who seized the property for the crown and bestowed it upon Guy De Baliol in 1095. Guy began the construction of a castle, which his son, Bernard, continued. He expanded this fortification and founded a town outside the castle walls, to which he would give his name. The Bishop of Durham took control of the lands for a short while but in 1212, King John ordered the lands returned to the Baliol family. Despite being fought over repeatedly, it seems the castle remained in the Baliol family until John Baliol was crowned King of Scotland. He foreswore an oath to Edward I of England, so Edward crushed the Scots and imprisoned John in the Tower of London, taking back the lands and the castle.
The Bishop of Durham reasserted the churches claim and it was not until 1307 that Edward II reclaimed the castle for the crown. The castle was bequeathed to the Beauchamps family who retained the lands until the line died out, when they fell to Anne, wife of the Kingmaker, Richard Nevil, Earl of Warwick. After the death of the Earl, thanks to his wife Anne Neville, the castle was granted to the Duke of Gloucester, later King Richard III. Richard made extensive plans to expand the castle and its defences, but these came to nothing, as he was famously defeated in the Battle of Bosworth by Henry Bolingbrook. The castle remained in the Neville family and they continued to build upon their estates until the 16th century when Charles Neville, 6th Earl of Westmorland was involved in the rising of the North. He instigated the famous plot we had learnt of earlier in the day, to remove Elizabeth I and place Mary Queen of Scots on the throne in her place. The lands were seized again and in 1626 were sold into the possession of the Vane family. Sit Henry Vane purchased Barnard Castle and Raby Castle but favoured the latter, so Barnard Castle fell into ruin, its masonry utilised to improve Raby.
The castle was left to brave the weather and wear of centuries before English Heritage took control and maintained what remained of the ancient pile. Though the years of neglect are regrettable, the ultimate rescue is ideal for the modern history hunter, free to explore the battle grounds of ancients at will. There is of course, the usual entrance fee, essential to the continued upkeep of the princely property, but far from extortionate.
We gently traversed the grounds, the Outer Ward within the walls now embellished with beautiful communal sensory gardens and fresh lawns to relax upon. We enjoyed the midday sunshine and snacks sitting on the grass. Audrey appeared utterly enamoured with the sensational yellows and pristine whites of daisies and dandelions. She giggled and danced through the gorgeous green grass. Wandering across the grounds, we zigzagged through the various outcrops of worked stone, once marking the boundaries of important castle quarters. We eventually came upon the Inner Ward and Keep. Here the best of the ruins reach for the heavens above. The circular tower is still accessible; following the spiral stone staircase to the summit offers spectacular views of the surrounding scenery. A particularly picturesque position of the castle is a stunning window overlooking remarkable views of the Tees gorge. Upon this irresistible aspect is carved a stone boar, the emblem of that once mighty owner, Richard III. We explored every inch of the ancient ruin, treading the floors where Kings and warriors of old would wander, until we were all equally exhausted, elated and ready for home.
A fabulous intrigue of the castle arrives in the tale of the Teesdale hermit. A celebrated local celebrity, Francis Shields lived from 1815 to 1881 and apparently resided within the ruins, offering tours to any interested onlookers. Frank as he was tenderly referred is possibly one of the earliest known tour guides in the country and is said to have met such famous figures as Lewis Carol at the ancient site.
There are also more sinister stories attached to the town, of a pagan ritual after 18th century illicit wedding ceremonies, where the newlyweds were encouraged to leap over a broomstick. The mysterious Parson hiding dark secrets and black magic in an attempt to bewitch the little community. Traitor’s tree still stands just outside the castle, where countless hangings and executions of the counties condemned took place. Here ghosts of Barny must roam in their silent masses. In fact, the vision of an elderly ghost has been spied sitting silently by the Tees close to the castle on multiple occasions. Audrey and I have been on the trail of this elusive apparition in the past. Our terrifying ordeal was documented for posterity. If you feel particularly brave, you can witness the horror unfold…
